Ynyshir, the sole two-Michelin-star restaurant in Wales, has been issued a one-star hygiene rating by the Food Standards Agency (FSA), following an inspection that revealed significant shortcomings in food safety management. The rating, which indicates ‘major improvement necessary,’ has ignited a discussion on whether elite dining establishments should be subject to standard health and safety regulations, with chef Gareth Ward defending his practices and critics weighing in on both sides.
The inspection took place on November 5 at Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms, located in a remote area near Machynlleth, Ceredigion, just outside Snowdonia National Park. Known for its extravagant 30-course tasting menu priced at £468 per person, the restaurant offers a five-hour experience that the Michelin Guide praises as ‘truly unique’ and ‘playful.’ Ward, the head chef and owner, has built a reputation for using premium ingredients, including sashimi-grade fish from Japan and A5 Wagyu beef, often served raw or aged in specialized chambers.
According to the FSA report, the restaurant scored one out of five stars, with deficiencies noted in the management of food safety and the cleanliness of facilities, though food handling was rated as generally satisfactory. Ward responded to the rating by stating he is ‘not embarrassed’ and criticized inspectors for not understanding his culinary techniques. He highlighted that the use of raw ingredients and aging processes, common in high-end cuisine, were questioned during the inspection, and he has since rectified paperwork issues to meet compliance standards.
Food critic Giles Coren entered the fray by arguing on BBC Radio 4’s World at One that health and safety rules ‘don’t really apply’ to Michelin-starred restaurants like Ynyshir. Coren, who visited the restaurant in 2022, described its kitchen as a fiery, innovative space where traditional inspection criteria may not fit, suggesting that regulators need to modernize their approaches to account for avant-garde culinary methods.
Contrary to Coren’s view, the Chartered Institute of Environmental Health (CIEH) asserted that no food business is exempt from legal standards, emphasizing that hygiene regulations exist to protect public health. Una Kane, chair of CIEH’s food advisory panel, stated that Ynyshir’s rating means it is operating below minimum requirements and that the same basic standards must apply universally. She welcomed the restaurant’s cooperation with authorities to address the issues, underscoring the importance of maintaining safety without stifling creativity.
Ynyshir has earned numerous accolades, including being named Britain’s restaurant of the year in 2022 and 2023, and it features an in-house DJ and a rambunctious atmosphere that sets it apart. The incident underscores the ongoing challenge of balancing culinary innovation with regulatory compliance, particularly as high-end restaurants push boundaries with techniques like raw food preparation and aging.
Moving forward, Ynyshir is working closely with environmental health teams to improve its hygiene rating while continuing to offer its distinctive dining experience. The outcome may prompt broader conversations about adapting food safety frameworks to accommodate diverse restaurant models, ensuring that both innovation and consumer protection are upheld in the evolving gastronomic landscape.
