A dispute over the bus service to Machu Picchu has escalated into protests and tourist strandings, with ongoing legal battles between the incumbent operator and a newly appointed company threatening the site’s accessibility. The conflict highlights broader issues in Peru’s tourism management and local community benefits, underscoring the challenges of balancing corporate interests with public needs at one of the world’s most iconic destinations.
Machu Picchu, Peru’s premier tourist attraction and a UNESCO World Heritage site, draws over 1.6 million visitors each year, but reaching the ancient Inca ruins is no simple feat. Tourists must first journey by train to the town of Aguas Calientes, a trip lasting two to three and a half hours, before boarding buses for the final 20-minute ascent up the mountain. The only alternative is a strenuous two-hour hike, making the bus service indispensable for the vast majority of visitors who rely on it for access.
For the past three decades, the bus operation has been managed by Consettur, which ferries some 4,500 people daily from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu. Cristian Alberto Caballero Chacón, head of operations for Consettur, acknowledges recent tensions but defends the company’s local roots, noting it comprises 12 different entities with various partners, including the local district council holding a 38% stake. He asserts that Consettur is not a monopoly and that its long-standing presence reflects deep community ties.
The controversy ignited when Consettur’s license expired and the contract was awarded to San Antonio de Torontoy, a firm based in the broader Urubamba Province. Local protestors, dissatisfied with what they viewed as a non-transparent bidding process, blocked the railway line to Aguas Calientes with rocks in September, stranding approximately 1,400 tourists. Peruvian authorities had to intervene, clearing the tracks and evacuating visitors on special trains, while protestors argued that replacing one monopoly with another did little to address their grievances.
Legal challenges have since delayed San Antonio de Torontoy’s start, allowing Consettur to continue operations amid the uncertainty. A round-trip bus ticket costs $24 for foreign tourists and $15 for Peruvians, but the overall expense of visiting Machu Picchu is substantial, with train fares ranging from $140 for basic round-trip service to $2,000 for luxury first-class. Travelers like Annalise Jaksic and Todd Carland expressed frustration over the high costs and cumbersome booking process, noting difficulties in securing entry tickets without expensive guided tours.
Revenue distribution has emerged as a key point of contention, with local leaders pushing for a larger share of tourism earnings. Elvis La Torre, mayor of Aguas Calientes, revealed that only 10% of the $57 entry fee for Machu Picchu remains in the region, while the rest funds Peru’s Ministry of Culture for maintaining other archaeological sites and covering wages. He advocates for increased local retention to enhance tourism infrastructure and support community projects, a sentiment echoed by vendor Dina Huillca, who highlighted inadequate basic services like water, healthcare, and education in her village.
Carlos González, president of the Cusco tourism chamber, calls for state oversight of public transport to unify Peru’s tourism strategy and improve competitiveness. He proposes diversifying the Machu Picchu experience with dedicated areas for different visitor types, such as spiritual seekers and social media users, but laments that political instability—with six presidents in six years—hinders progress. Despite engaging numerous officials, he has seen little lasting change, underscoring the systemic barriers to reform.
As the legal standoff persists, Mr. Caballero of Consettur expresses willingness to coexist with San Antonio de Torontoy if it gains approval, emphasizing that competition could benefit all. The ongoing row not only disrupts travel but also reflects deeper tensions in Peru’s approach to managing its cultural treasures, where local aspirations, corporate dynamics, and governmental policies must align to sustain the country’s appeal as a top global destination.
