French authorities have launched an investigation into Shein and other online retailers over the sale of childlike sex dolls, as the fast-fashion giant prepares to open its first physical store in Paris. The company has pledged full cooperation and imposed a global ban on such products, amid widespread outrage and protests.
Paris prosecutors are investigating Shein, along with Temu, AliExpress, and Wish, for allegedly distributing violent, pornographic, or undignified content accessible to minors. The probe, initiated after France’s consumer watchdog identified childlike sex dolls on Shein’s platform, focuses on potential child pornography violations. Shein and AliExpress face additional scrutiny for disseminating pornographic content related to children, with cases referred to the Office des Mineurs for minor protection. This legal action underscores growing concerns over online safety and regulatory enforcement in e-commerce.
In response, Shein announced a total ban on sex dolls worldwide and committed to transparency with French authorities. A spokesperson stated the company would provide names of buyers and sellers involved, and permanently block accounts linked to illegal sales. This move came after French Finance Minister threatened to ban Shein from the country if it continued selling the controversial dolls, highlighting the high stakes for the retailer’s operations in Europe.
The investigation coincides with Shein’s scheduled opening of its first permanent physical outlet on Wednesday in the BHV Marais department store in central Paris. This store marks Shein’s entry into brick-and-mortar retail, but the timing has fueled criticism and boycotts from rival brands and activists concerned about the company’s practices. Protesters gathered outside BHV ahead of the opening, reflecting public discontent over fast-fashion’s environmental and social impacts.
Several fashion designers, including Agnès B, have announced they will withdraw from BHV in protest against Shein’s presence. Agnès B cited opposition to fast-fashion and job threats, while BHV’s director, Frédéric Merlin, defended the partnership, stating that only Shein-designed items for BHV would be sold and expressing confidence in the products. This internal conflict illustrates the broader industry tensions between traditional retail values and the rise of ultra-fast-fashion models.
Shein, founded in China and based in Singapore, has faced ongoing criticism for its environmental impact and labor conditions. In 2025 alone, France has fined the company 191 million euros for issues like false advertising and microplastic disclosures. The European Commission is also investigating Shein over illegal product risks, reflecting broader regulatory pressures on fast-fashion and efforts to curb its sustainability challenges.
Despite the backlash, Shein plans to expand with stores in seven other French cities through Galeries Lafayette, though Galeries Lafayette has distanced itself by removing its name from those locations. The situation highlights the tensions between economic opportunities and ethical concerns in the retail sector, as companies balance growth with corporate responsibility.
As the investigation proceeds, Shein’s ability to navigate legal and public relations challenges will be crucial for its growth in Europe. The outcome could influence future regulations on e-commerce and fast-fashion, emphasizing the need for stronger oversight and accountability in global markets to protect consumers and uphold ethical standards.