The Intercity Notte, Europe’s last passenger train that travels by sea across the Strait of Messina in Italy, faces an uncertain future due to a revived government plan to build a massive bridge. This unique service blends rail and ferry travel, offering a nostalgic journey threatened by modern infrastructure projects.
Every morning, passengers aboard the Intercity Notte witness a carefully choreographed ritual as the train splits in Villa San Giovanni, is shunted onto a ferry, and carried across the strait to Messina before reassembling for the final leg to Palermo or Syracuse. The narrow strait, governed by strong tidal currents that inspired sea monsters in Homer’s Odyssey, is the only place in Europe where passenger trains still travel by sea. This multi-modal journey connects mainland Italy to Sicily, serving as a daily gesture of unity for students, workers, and tourists who choose the slow pace of night trains over faster alternatives.
The service began in 1899 and was once common across Europe, but closures of routes like those between Germany and Denmark have left it as the sole survivor. Train-ferries emerged in the late 19th century as a solution for expanding rail networks meeting large bodies of water, but most were replaced by bridges or tunnels as demand shifted to air travel. Today, the Intercity Notte covers 1,489 kilometers from Milan to Syracuse, Italy’s longest sleeper service, and has become a symbol of historical travel methods that prioritize experience over speed.
However, the Italian government’s proposal for a €13.5 billion suspension bridge over the Strait of Messina, aiming for completion between 2032 and 2033, threatens to end this unique crossing. Supporters see the bridge as a milestone of progress that will enhance connectivity, but critics argue it could drain resources from southern Italy’s more urgent infrastructure needs and pose environmental risks in a seismically active area. The plan has reignited debates about balancing modernization with cultural preservation.
Public opinion is deeply divided, with many Sicilians expressing skepticism or outright opposition. A recent poll shows Italians evenly split on the issue, and in Messina, anti-bridge posters dot shops and cafes. Locals like Jansan Favazzo, a philosophy researcher, fear the bridge could become a ‘cathedral in the desert’ without accompanying regional investment, while others, such as English teacher Gioia, criticize it as a ‘dangerous joke’ with potential for mafia meddling.
For travelers, the 20-minute sea crossing is a highlight, offering breathtaking views of the water and a chance to disembark, stretch legs, and buy traditional Sicilian arancini from counters on the ferry’s deck. The journey fosters a sense of community, pulling passengers into conversations about politics, feelings, and destinations. The golden statue of the Madonna at Messina Harbor, blessing the city since ancient times, serves as a poignant symbol of homecoming for many Sicilians, who say, ‘We’re home’ upon sighting it.
Despite the uncertainty, night trains like the Intercity Notte are enjoying a renaissance as travelers seek sustainable alternatives to flying. Francesca Serra, director of Intercity operations at Trenitalia, notes that over 60% of passengers use the service for leisure, making it the ‘holiday train,’ while others rely on it to return to hometowns. Trenitalia has embraced the crossing as an integral part of the journey, transforming what was once seen as lost time into a genuine travel experience filled with lyrical beauty.
As discussions about the bridge’s feasibility continue, the Intercity Notte remains a testament to the enduring appeal of slow travel and the importance of preserving historical connections. Whether the bridge is built or not, this journey offers a rare blend of engineering marvel and cultural ritual, reminding us that some routes are about more than just reaching a destination—they are about the stories and connections forged along the way.