Executive summary: Ynyshir, a two-Michelin-star restaurant in Wales, has been given a one-out-of-five hygiene rating by food safety inspectors, igniting a debate over whether high-end dining establishments should be exempt from standard health regulations.
The restaurant, located near Machynlleth in Ceredigion, was inspected on November 5 and received the low score, indicating that ‘major improvement’ is necessary. Ynyshir is renowned for its innovative 30-course tasting menu, which features raw and aged ingredients like sashimi and aged beef, with prices starting at £468 per person.
Chef and owner Gareth Ward defended the rating, stating he was ‘not embarrassed’ and attributing it to inspectors’ lack of understanding of his techniques. He acknowledged some issues, such as the need for an additional hand-washing station, which has since been installed, but criticized the bureaucratic nature of the inspection process.
Food critic Giles Coren sparked controversy by suggesting that normal health and safety rules ‘don’t really apply’ to elite restaurants like Ynyshir. Speaking on BBC Radio 4, he argued that inspectors need to ‘modernize’ and understand the unique environment of high-end cuisine, where raw food handling is common and safety measures are different.
Coren’s comments were met with swift condemnation from the Chartered Institute of Environmental Health (CIEH). Una Kane, chair of the CIEH’s food advisory panel, emphasized that no food business is above the law and that hygiene standards are non-negotiable to protect public health. She expressed disappointment at the implication that some restaurants could opt out of legal requirements.
The debate has highlighted tensions between culinary innovation and regulatory compliance. Other chefs, such as James Lowe of the now-closed Lyle’s in London, shared similar experiences with inspectors who were unfamiliar with specialized techniques like aging meat or handling unpasteurized cheese, suggesting a gap between traditional inspection methods and modern gastronomy.
In response to the rating, Ynyshir has requested a re-inspection and is working with local authorities to address the concerns. Under Welsh law, the restaurant must display its one-star hygiene certificate prominently, and the business has stated it is committed to maintaining high standards while continuing its unique culinary approach.
This incident raises broader questions about how food safety regulations adapt to evolving dining trends. As high-end restaurants push boundaries with raw and experimental dishes, there is a growing need for inspectors to be trained in contemporary techniques without compromising on essential health safeguards, ensuring that both innovation and consumer safety are upheld.
