China’s surging demand for durians, particularly the luxury Musang King variety from Malaysia, is driving an economic boom in Southeast Asian towns like Raub, with imports hitting a record $7 billion in 2024 and reshaping local economies. This pungent fruit, dubbed the ‘Hermès of durians’ for its premium status, has become a billion-dollar industry, fueling diplomatic ties and highlighting the region’s agricultural transformation.
Once a 19th-century gold mining town, Raub in Malaysia’s Pahang state now thrives on durian cultivation, with the Musang King commanding prices from $14 to $100 per fruit. The town’s landscape is dominated by durian trees, as farmers have reversed past trends by cutting down oil palms to plant durians, capitalizing on the lucrative Chinese market. This shift has created millionaire farmers and boosted local economies, with exporters noting that even a small percentage of Chinese consumers seeking durians translates to ample business.
Durian’s divisive aroma, often compared to cabbage or sulphur, has not hindered its popularity in China, where it has evolved from an exotic gift to a social media status symbol. Chinese tourists flock to Raub to sample the fruit, with platters arranged from mild to rich, culminating in the complex bitterness of the Musang King. This growing sophistication in taste reflects a maturing market, with consumers now seeking nuanced flavors like bitterness over mere sweetness.
The economic impact extends beyond Raub, with China importing over 90% of the world’s durian exports. Thailand and Vietnam are top suppliers, but Malaysia is gaining market share with premium varieties. The demand has spurred a global durian rush, with Chinese importers like Xu Xin traveling to Malaysia to source the best fruits, confident in the market’s vast potential despite the fruit’s high cost and polarizing smell.
China has skillfully woven this durian craze into its diplomacy, signing trade agreements with Southeast Asian nations like Thailand, Vietnam, and Malaysia. These deals, often celebrated as strengthening bilateral ties, align with infrastructure investments such as the China-Laos Railway, which transports thousands of tonnes of fruit daily. This durian diplomacy underscores Beijing’s economic influence in the region, leveraging agricultural trade to foster closer relationships.
However, the boom comes with significant challenges. Food safety concerns have erupted, with Chinese authorities finding carcinogenic dyes in Thai durians, while in Vietnam, coffee farmers pivoting to durians have driven up global coffee prices. In Raub, a turf war has broken out over land use, with authorities felling illegally planted durian trees and forcing farmers to pay leases or face eviction, highlighting tensions between economic growth and regulation.
Looking ahead, China is pursuing ‘durian freedom’ by growing its own supply in Hainan province, where agricultural trials are bearing fruit. While Hainan’s harvest currently accounts for less than 1% of China’s consumption, successful cultivation could reduce imports, threatening Southeast Asian suppliers. Farmers like Lu Yuee Thing acknowledge this risk but focus on improving yields, while locals remain confident in the superiority of Malaysian durians.
As China’s appetite continues to shape global trade, the durian rush exemplifies the intersection of agriculture, economy, and diplomacy. With ongoing demand and evolving markets, Southeast Asian towns must navigate both opportunities and uncertainties, ensuring that the Musang King’s throne remains secure in this golden era for the ‘King of Fruits.’
