Ukrainian winemakers are defying the odds of war to preserve their ancient traditions, with pioneers like Sergiy Klimov championing the cause both at home and abroad. Their efforts are not only revitalizing the industry but also reinforcing national identity amidst ongoing conflict.
Sergiy Klimov, a Ukrainian wine specialist and bar owner, has turned his passion into a mission to revolutionize the country’s wine industry. Since 2014, he has operated a chain of wine bars in Kyiv exclusively featuring Ukrainian-produced wines and now runs his own vineyard in Zarichanka, where he experiments with grape cultivation and winemaking processes. Through sharing Ukrainian-made wine, Klimov feels he is preserving a tradition connected to his ancestral land for thousands of years, stating, ‘It became my mission. I want to bring revolution to the industry.’
Ukraine’s winemaking heritage dates back millennia, with archaeological digs unearthing ancient Greek vessels and fossilized grape remains from the 11th to 9th centuries BC. Crimea was once a prominent wine region, but after Russia’s illegal annexation in 2014, many vineyards were lost or destroyed, according to Anna Eugenia Yanchenko, a Ukrainian cultural scientist and wine researcher. The full-scale invasion in February 2022 exacerbated this, with Russian forces targeting wineries like Château Kurin and ARTWINERY, while others faced occupation, significantly reducing production capacity.
Despite these challenges, individuals like Klimov are determined to keep the industry thriving. Their work is motivated by a desire to strengthen Ukrainian national identity in the face of Russia’s efforts to deny sovereignty. Yanchenko, now based in Warsaw, emphasizes that winemaking has never ceased in Ukraine, serving as a bridge to connect with other nations and share the country’s uniqueness.
Internationally, figures like Tania Olevska are promoting Ukrainian wines. She left Ukraine for London in July 2022 and founded Ukrainian Wines Company UK to import wines to Britain. Initially met with rejection, interest surged after winemakers showcased their products at the London Wine Fair in 2023, attracting trade attention. Olevska notes that people should try Ukrainian wines not just due to the war but for their quality, highlighting a shift in global perception.
The industry faces historical hurdles, including the Soviet era’s focus on quantity over quality, which damaged Ukraine’s winemaking reputation. Earlier, the Russian Empire’s ineffective handling of grape phylloxera and periods of foreign rule further hindered development. Now, winemakers are overcoming these legacies by emphasizing Ukraine’s diverse landscapes, with Klimov pointing to black soils, limestone, and over 400 grape varieties that create complex flavors.
Community efforts also play a role, such as Klimov’s project in Kyiv where neighbors collected grapes from urban vines, producing 100 bottles of natural wine. Proceeds are donated to Ukraine’s armed forces, symbolizing resilience and support for the war effort. This initiative not only raises funds but also fosters a sense of tradition and collective action in difficult times.
Looking ahead, the revival of Ukrainian winemaking has broader implications for cultural preservation and economic support. As Klimov invests in the industry, he believes that supporting Ukraine’s economy through wine helps sustain its culture, a small step everyone can take. With growing international interest and a commitment to quality, Ukrainian winemakers are poised to reshape their country’s image and contribute to its sovereignty.
