In Sudan’s Jebel Marra region, a fertile area in Darfur, food is rotting due to war-induced isolation, creating a stark paradox as the country grapples with one of the world’s worst hunger crises. This isolated enclave, controlled by the neutral Sudan Liberation Army – Abdulwahid (SLA-AW), produces abundant crops like oranges, apples, and strawberries, but insecurity and blocked roads prevent distribution to millions in need.
The Jebel Marra mountains, with their Mediterranean-like climate and fertile soil, stand in contrast to the devastation elsewhere in Sudan. Women in bright colors tend fields on donkeys, cultivating rare crops that were once prized nationwide. However, the ongoing civil war, now in its third year, has crippled agriculture across the country, leaving nearly 25 million people—half the population—facing severe food shortages, including over 600,000 experiencing famine, according to UN estimates.
Surrounded by conflict on all sides, Jebel Marra is increasingly cut off from major markets. To the west and north, the Rapid Support Forces (RSF) and allied Arab militias block roads, while to the south, RSF positions face frequent bombings by the Sudanese army, endangering civilians. The region’s farmers and traders can no longer reach cities like el-Fasher, 130km away, or Tine on the Chadian border, 275km away, leading to a buildup of unsold produce.
Transportation challenges are exacerbated by poor road conditions and numerous checkpoints. Vendors report that traveling just 12km can take a full day due to mountainous terrain and mud. Insecurity has made journeys treacherous, with armed robberies common even after local truces. At makeshift markets like Tawila, oversupply has driven prices down, forcing some to sell oranges for nearly nothing or discard them as they rot en route.
Fragile trade agreements have allowed limited market activity in areas like Nertiti and Zalingei, but these are precarious. Markets open only once a week, and checkpoints—sometimes over two dozen on market days—are manned by RSF fighters or Arab militias who demand fees. Drivers negotiate silently as passengers watch, highlighting the constant threat of extortion and violence that disrupts commerce.
The humanitarian crisis extends beyond food waste, with Jebel Marra becoming a refuge for those fleeing violence elsewhere. Lorries carrying displaced people arrive daily, many sheltering in schools and clinics with little aid. In Golo, the de facto SLA-AW capital, a displaced nurse described dire conditions, with families crammed into classrooms, no income, and children screaming from hunger, underscoring the broader suffering.
Despite the relative peace within SLA-AW territory, the conflict’s ripple effects are evident. Checkpoints guard every entrance, confiscating contraband, while the influx of evacuees strains resources. Aid agencies struggle to access the area, compounding the crisis. The situation reflects a deeper irony: a region capable of feeding many is trapped by a war it seeks to avoid.
Looking ahead, the standoff in Jebel Marra symbolizes the wider failure to resolve Sudan’s conflict. With both warring parties viewed with distrust by locals, the future remains uncertain. As one fruit trader lamented, “We’re not part of the war – we just want to sell our oranges,” highlighting the urgent need for safe corridors and humanitarian access to alleviate the famine.